I just returned to China after 8 years away (after visiting a lot 2008-2016). Here's some changes I saw in tier 1/2 cities:
1. Much more politeness: people actually queue, there's less spitting, and I was only barged once or twice. Though, Beijing still has doorless public bathrooms without soap.
2. Many street vendors have been cleared out. Of the 30 clubs that used to exist in a tower block in Chengdu, only 1 survives. It feels more similar to other rich countries.
3. The economic mood is negative. Middle class people save through real estate, and it's down.
4. There's fewer white people. But contrary to what I'd heard, locals are still friendly and curious about foreigners. It's still a fun place to visit.
5. Though it's maybe harder for foreigners to navigate. Everything runs on Chinese apps, which sometimes don't work well with foreign cards. You can't even walk on Tian'anmen square without advance booking.
6. People big up Wechat but I found it a pain. I wouldn't want to access all my other apps through WhatsApp (and lose my place if I check a message).
7. The scale is still impressive. Chongqing is a city of 20M people, with 360 degree endless skyscrapers, and virtually no foreigners. A 1990s Buddhist temple near Emei might be the largest I've visited.
8. The most overt propaganda I encountered: people would bring up how China has 55 ethnic minorities and they all get on very well. But most don't think about politics and only have vague positive impressions of the West. Or they'll point out America has gun violence, drugs and homelessness. (Similarly to how Americans will point out China has censorship & Tibet.)
9. Many educated people have a VPN and read Western social media. But it was unclear what fraction do it regularly.
10. Security cameras are everywhere. I always felt safe in China, and now even pick pocketing would be tough to get away with. They even have honour system vending machines - just take what you want, pay after.
11. The infrastructure boom looked over for now: less construction, and empty high-rises in smaller cities. Some build quality is low, so it might be aging badly in 20 years. But it's great now.
12. Everyone now drives Chinese cars. We saw the triple fold phone.
13. It’s still cheap: Shanghai salaries are 1/2 of UK but money goes maybe 2x further. $3 gets you taxi ride or decent meal. In Chengdu, we rented a 4BR apartment for $100/night. There are 300km/h trains with lie-flat seats for $30.
14. There's more interest in traditional culture (at least superficially). Tourist sites were full of people taking photos in traditional dress. I saw more people praying at temples, and more elegant tea houses with tatami floors (from the Song dynasty, not Japan).
15. There are still scams, but I might tweet about that another time…
I think people exaggerate the bad sides of China, for just 8 years it is still a bit improvement